This Is Not a Restaurant Review

I’m always wary when I call a new restaurant to inquire about its cuisine and whoever answers the phone says something like, “Uh, hang on a minute” and passes the phone to someone else. A stunt like that usually means one of two things. Either the quicker-picker-upper on the other…

Foodstuff

Here it is, the newest definition of overindulgence: the white chocolate martini. At Angelo and Maxie’s Generation 2 Steakhouse (651 Okeechobee Blvd., West Palm Beach, 561-833-6550), you can order a martini glass dipped into melted white chocolate, then filled with vodka so cold it hurts your teeth. Sip it as…

A Little Tail

The bare midriff is making me insane. I admit I first thought the trend of displaying tight, tanned little tummies, with or without belly ring installed center stage, kind of cutely risqué. But after pop princesses like Christina Aguilera took it to such extremes that they now present themselves naked…

Foodstuff

Finding some action can be pretty easy in South Florida. Scoring a piece of it for yourself is significantly harder. And despite the plethora of good pizza pies out there, to find yourself a real New York-style slice — extra-large, oozing with oil from the high-quality mozzarella, and just sprinkled…

Aged to Perfection

So you’re youngish, you think you’re pretty darn cool, and you’re shopping for dinner at the Publix in the Village Square Plaza in Boynton Beach when you notice Sonoma Grille. You’re surprised, because the high-ceilinged bistro, with its widely spaced oil paintings on the walls and closely spaced tables on…

Foodstuff

So you say you like a little Scripture with your conch fritters and curry goat? Good thing Annie’s Fresh Fish & Baked Goods (1100-02 NE Fourth Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 954-763-9774) is in the book — the phone book, that is, not the Good Book. Along with the Caribbean and American…

Mezzano-no

Dinner. Mezzanotte. CityPlace. Ohmygod. Dinner being the meal we like to eat in the evening. Mezzanotte being the sixth installment of a popular Italian restaurant that got its ’80s start in a groundbreaking South Beach location where models once spontaneously danced on the tables (and snorted coke in the bathrooms,…

Foodstuff

What does a restaurateur do with a location that had become known more for scandal than for food? Capitalize on it, of course. The owners of Gryphon (10076 Griffin Rd., Cooper City, 954-252-1411) recently sent out press releases acknowledging that the restaurant preceding the new eatery and nightclub, the erstwhile…

Aloha, Roy

Aloha,” says the valet attendant. “Aloha,” says the hostess who pulls open the door. “Aloha,” says the busboy who fills your water glasses even before you sit down. If you haven’t figured out where you are by now, let me give you a few more hints: The ukulele. The lei…

Foodstuff

If any executive chef can make the food at the River House (301 SW Third Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 954-525-7661) worthy of the place’s great location, it’s Doug Riess. Like owners Tim Petrillo and Peter Boulukos, Riess worked with the king of the gastronomic diaspora ’round these parts, Mark Militello, at…

A-OK at HBG

In our seasonal, fickle dining market, a high-end restaurant opening to unanimous rave reviews is usually an accomplishment in itself. When said restaurant is credited with revitalizing or turning around a neighborhood, well, that’s flattering too. And when, after several years in business, it has developed such a loyal crowd…

Foodstuff

Restaurant bargain hunters usually have to settle for early-bird specials. Well, not this year. In honor of its 20th year in business, the Nicaraguan steak house Los Ranchos (2604 Sawgrass Mills Cir., Sunrise, 954-851-9665) is offering a different four-course meal every month for the rest of 2001. The cost? Just…

Good Moon Rising

The waitress at Moon Thai & Japanese, a month-old restaurant in Coral Springs, approached us as we were still getting settled in our bistro-style seats. “We don’t have white tuna tonight,” she informed us, looking directly at my father-in-law. My husband and I laughed — his father, Joel, is addicted…

Foodstuff

Some folks like their lasagna cooked in a casserole pan. Please. Why opt for the norm when you can have that classic dish baked in a whole new way — like on top of pizza dough? The “Little Italy,” a New York¯style gourmet pie enhanced with lasagna, Italian sausage, meatballs,…

Foodstuff

Serious readers, writers, and general workaholics know about Levenger, a catalog that offers stylish tools designed to make literary endeavors easier. Most of us didn’t know that Levenger has an outlet store (420 S. Congress Ave., Delray Beach, 561-274-0904 or 888-592-7461), where items such as pens, portfolios, briefcases, and office…

Tony Tavern

Picture a prototypical tavern. Envision the dark, scarred wood, the frayed seat cushions, the rotund bartender pulling a draft. Smell, through your mind’s nose, the cigarette smoke vying with char-grilled burgers and ancient fried onions. Listen to the squawks and yawps of casual, unrestrained conversation. Are you there? Good. That…

Broken Wings

Nation’s Restaurant News, a restaurant-industry magazine, runs a whimsical bit every week: It features a “clever, funny or bizarre restaurant name” as “Name of the Week.” Winners have included operations the likes of the Barking Frog and Thai One On. The column is good for a chortle, and the eateries…

Foodstuff

If you’ve never really known exactly what a knish is and been too afraid to ask, here’s a recent definition: Executive lunch. Now businessfolk on the go can grab an authentic Coney Island potato knish — meaning square in shape rather than a puffy blob — from Coney Island Joe’s…

The Scent of Fajitas

Back when I worked in restaurant kitchens, my husband became an expert at guessing what the specials of the night had been. All he had to do was take a whiff of my clothes. “New England clam chowder,” he’d say, sniffing. “Grilled pork loin.” Sniff. “Filet mignon with,” sniff, “a…

Foodstuff

It’s that old misnomer again: Mediterranean Food Corner (922 Sample Rd., Lighthouse Point, 954-786-9909) actually sells Middle Eastern specialties. You can find Israeli, Egyptian, and Lebanese treats at this little shop hidden in the elbow of a strip mall. In other words superior hummus, baba ghannouj, falafel, tabbouleh, and meat…

Flameout

Whenever my family went to New York’s Chinatown for dinner or dim sum, my neat-freak mother would choose the restaurant with the dirtiest floor. When her astonished children would point out the grains of rice and chicken bones littering the peeling linoleum tiles, she would just smile, shrug, and let…

Foodstuff

Brilliant e-commerce ideas begin in… Boca? Apparently so. Shore to Door Seafood (67 SW Tenth Ter., Boca Raton, 800-218-8147, Shore to Door Seafood), delivers fresh seafood anywhere via overnight FedEx packaging. Started by two long-time friends and fishermen, the company purchases its products directly from the local fishing fleet (especially…