Foodstuff

Popular philosophy says that you can’t bring back yesterday, but restaurateur Peter Beck isn’t listening. After changing the name and style of his formal eatery Yesterday’s (3001 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-561-4400) to the more casual Moonraker on the Water, he experienced backlash. So when the concept didn’t…

¿Cómo Se Dice Rotten?

Take it from me: Never, ever treat a two-year-old to dinner in a restaurant. Amid the whining, the curiosity about the surroundings, and the shouts of “I do it!” as the glass of milk tumbles to the floor, you’re lucky if you get a bite in edgewise. Of course, if…

Foodstuff

If you’ve gone outside lately, you’ve probably noticed that the balmy days of winter are over and summer’s setting in with a vengeance. The traditional methods for cooling down are swimming pools and ice cream, but if the fat-laden latter sounds more heavy than refreshing, consider an alternative: Brooklyn’s Best…

A Red-Hot Chile Pepper

I recently had an interesting conversation about Mexican vino with wine guru Fred Tasker of The Miami Herald. He told me that, up in the Sierra Madre mountains, a group of winemakers is beginning to turn out some very drinkable vintages. The vintners, who are of Spanish descent, have the…

Foodstuff

The Hollywood dining scene seems as fragile as ever; a perfect illustration is the abrupt departure of tropically inspired Ginger Bay Café, which received good reviews. But perhaps Burt’s on the Beach (101 N. Ocean Dr., Hollywood) can shore things up. Set to open in May, the oceanside eatery is…

The Elements of Taste

A great restaurant, like love and immortality, is one of those things that money just can’t buy. Then again, witnessing the winter/spring couples cooing around Palm Beach leads me to believe that maybe money can buy love, but I’m still pretty sure it can’t buy a great restaurant. That doesn’t…

The Reel Deal

You won’t find anything resembling a hobo’s fish joint at Hobo’s Fish Joint in Coral Springs. For one thing, hoboes traditionally hang out around railroad depots, not strip malls. They have also, throughout their colorful history, tended to avoid handsomely designed restaurants with cherry-wood floors, warm mahogany highlights, and two…

Not Ready For Prime Time

If you’re thinking about opening (a) an Italian restaurant or (b) a steak house, you’d better come up with an original idea. These days we’re so overrun with both kinds of eateries that neither is appealing, either to the restaurant critics who have to describe them or to the dining…

Foodstuff

Sometimes, not often but sometimes, I can be convinced to actually diet. But only if I have access to a store like Cheeters Diet Treats (1476 Coral Ridge Dr., Coral Springs, 9547525322). All the products here are low carb, sugar free, and/or fat free. And to put it plainly, they’re…

I Wok the Line

When I was a waitress, I used to look for fast-paced, exciting restaurants in which to work. I wanted lots of tables, quick turnovers, and plenty of action. In short I wanted to be busy all the time so I could feel pleasantly exhausted at the end of the night…

Foodstuff

Certainly the last thing you expect from a coffee shop is meatballs. Unless, that is, you’re drinking java at the Scandinavian Coffee House (231 SE First Ave., Boca Raton, 561-347-6420). Here, along with your joe, you can have meatballs for breakfast in the form of the Swedish sandwich (meatballs and…

Let’s Do Brunch

Like cooking styles and ethnic cuisines, meals tend to go in and out of fashion. In the ’70s, ladies did lunch. In the ’80s, power breakfasts were the all-important yuppie thing. And the ’90s saw a return to fine, late-night dining. So what can we expect from the new millennium?…

Foodstuff

If you don’t know how to define Argentine pizza, then head over to Amigo’s (3834 N. University Dr., Sunrise) for a look-see. Or a taste test. Like the best New York- style pizzerias, Amigo’s makes pies with a thin crust, lots of tangy sauce, and high-quality mozzarella. The Argentine part…

Conduct Unbecoming

As a restaurant critic for both New Times Broward•Palm Beach (BPB) and Miami New Times, I’m often asked how the restaurants in the two territories compare, and which I like better. I used to be able to sum it up easily. It all came down to service. Both regions had…

Foodstuff

Honestly, you couldn’t find a more male-oriented eatery than the Hot Dogs Sports Pub (4528 N. University Dr., Lauderhill, 9547411424). From the big-screen TV to NASCAR super Sundays to the girls (real, live ones) modeling lingerie, this sports bar promotes all that makes men, well, men. Phallic symbols abound, including…

Foodstuff

Frankly the geometry seems a little screwy. But no matter what angle you take, White Diamond Burger (5995 S. State Rd. 7, Fort Lauderdale, 9543167205) serves a darn good burger that no doubt will remind some folks of White Castle burgers, the original square-shape ones that have a place in…

Cooking With Attitude

If you’ve been reading the newspapers, you’ve probably assumed that restaurateur Dennis Max has been taking a beating. His private life looks to be a shambles — wife Patty departed after catching him cheating on her one too many times. Word is Patty got a hefty settlement because of a…

Fit For a Kingpin

My parents, who love Italian food, went to try a new place they’d heard about in New Jersey, close to where they live. The pasta and meat dishes were fantastic, they were told, and best of all, the place was often featured in HBO’s Mob soap opera The Sopranos. My…

Foodstuff

If you need any more proof that all of South Florida — not just Miami — has become Hispanically enriched, look to the De Nuestra Mesa cookbook. Published by New Hope Charities in West Palm Beach, the compilation of Latin recipes, narratives, and humorous bits recently won first prize in…

Irish Setting

Aside from left to right and up to down, when it comes to reading menus and deciding what you want to eat in a restaurant, you have two choices. You can set your mind before you even glance at the bill of fare, going on what type of cuisine the…

Foodstuff

It may not be as ironic as a kosher delicatessen would be, but the luncheonette located in Heavenly Ham (298 S. Federal Hwy., Deerfield Beach, 9544287933) is still pretty odd — it’s a café and French bakery. For starters you can expect your sandwiches to come on French baguettes or…

Caribbean Queen

I write a lot about what diners should and can expect from restaurants. Most of the qualifications are givens: decent fare at reasonable prices in inviting surroundings. And when an eatery fails to live up to my, and subsequently your, expectations, I make sure to let readers (and restaurateurs) know…