Smooth as Satine

Here are some things I just don’t see in every restaurant: A new hire shadowing an experienced server in order to learn the velvet ropes. A waitress who doesn’t need for me to point out the wine I order from the list but rather nods in recognition at the name…

Alligator Tales

The alligator lay sprawled across the entranceway to the walking path at Shark Valley, as stopped and unmovable as a battery-dead wristwatch, absorbing the distant warmth of the winter sun. The only way around the six-foot creature, if we wanted to even start our stroll through this part of Everglades…

No Jacket Required

South Floridians have long known the meaning of “casual upscale” dressing; in fact, given our climate, both literal and cultural, we practically invented the style. But it’s been far too long since that concept has been applied to the actual restaurant rather than what patrons wear to it. That’s where…

The Bends

If I could sum up the newly opened Tarpon Bend in Weston with one onomatopoeic word, it would be a no-brainer: burp. And that’s not because the food at this month-old eatery is indigestion-inducing, though items like the Jamaican-style conch fritters, which were more like conch patties, needed a wrap…

Persian Delights

Of course it’s been a burning question: Now that restrictions and trade boycotts stemming from the 1979 hostage crisis have been lifted, where exactly can you get Persian caviar? Turns out it’s easy. For fish eggs and all your other imported Middle Eastern food needs — Turkish coffee, Israeli couscous,…

Calypso-So

The politicians and the service staff in South Florida seem to have one terrible habit in common: blind endorsement. In both cases, the perennial bluff has gotten so bad that it’s impossible to believe a recommendation that either makes. Local politicos no doubt can speak for themselves — or have…

More Bounce to the Ounce

Perhaps the last thing you’d expect to see next to a coffeehouse might be a Bounce House — you know, the puffy plastic piece of playground equipment that kids like to jump up and down in. But Cheryl Chamely, proprietor of the Trinidadian coffee shop Café Juvay (9395 W. Sample…

Strip Tease

The flamenco guitarist stands on a small podium between sidewalk tables at Café del Mar. The fingernails on his right hand resemble Lee Press-Ons, thanks to a talon-sharp file and a bottle of clear nail polish, and he uses them to pick complicated patterns while alternately holding the instrument over…

Livin’ La Vida Peruana

If you need more proof that Broward County’s demographics have become increasingly South American, head to La Bodega (3800 N. University Dr., Sunrise, 954-741-2626). This family-oriented Peruvian grill and market provides a whole rotisserie chicken with French fries, salad, and Inca cola for $8.99. But this clean, quick-service eatery has…

Go Away Jose!

No doubt it was a fluke that during a random sampling, the Food and Drug Administration found salmonella bacteria in some cumin packaged by Miami-based American Spice Co. Probably it was coincidence I came down with a stomach malady the same evening a batch of the spice was recalled from…

Get Your Yarmulkes Out!

Take Lox Haven (5715 Margate Blvd., Margate, 954-977-7300) at its word. This Jewish grocery store is a veritable treasure chest — or ice chest — of smoked, pickled, and cured fish. Lake Michigan whitefish, kippered salmon, hand-cut sable, Nova Scotia salmon, and a terrific assortment of herring beckon those who…

Johnny V.’s New Kitchen

“Jaboticaba.” Johnny Vinczencz says the word as if he’s chewing it, standing in what can only be described as Delray Beach’s singular tropical Eden. “Jaboticaba.” Or, perhaps he says it as if he’s getting used to uttering it. The latter’s probably the more apropos metaphor, since he’s now picking that…

Kids Contest

So you think your kids can cook. Now’s the time to prove it. The Children’s Home Society of Florida is sponsoring the Caring Chefs for Kids Recipe Contest. From September 1 to November 1, children ages 5 to 15 are eligible to enter in three categories: main course (chef); side…

Sprechen Sie Boring?

At the risk of sounding like a food snob, I too often find German cuisine in South Florida to be akin to writer’s block: a big, empty space where creativity and inspiration should be. It’s as if our local German-American chefs and restaurateurs invest both hearts and stomachs in dour,…

So Hot

Of the dozen or so definitions for jerk in the dictionary, only one concerns me. OK, I lied. Actually, three kinds of jerks have captured my attention: the jerk chicken, jerk pork, and jerk fish that will be available and in abundance September 1 from noon until 8 p.m. That’s…

A Taste for Sports

Sure, it’s still summer, but football fanatics have been officially inducted for the season. That’s right, Monday Night Football has been launched, and the question of the year already has been posed. No, it’s not Will the Dolphins make the playoffs?, or even, What the hell happened to Dennis Miller?…

A New Argentina

Of all the species of restaurants in the world, the steak house is no doubt the most universal. Nearly every dominant culture that morphed from hunting to herding — Italian, Japanese, Brazilian — has a themed place for steak. And each gives a simple piece of meat its own distinctive…

We Are Family

The campaign in Portugal is on: convince the wine-drinking world that natural cork is the only renewable resource appropriate to stop up a bottle of vino. Portuguese cork harvesters (yes, it really does come from trees) and cork-stopper manufacturers have banded together to enforce industrywide standards that will ensure a…

Shop the Subcontinent

The Little Asia Market (1756 N. University Dr., Pembroke Pines, 954-437-1666) is the answer to why everyone should frequent Indian grocery stores. This shop carries a familiar-exotic ethnic mix of Indian-Pakistani groceries, compact discs, tapes, videos, and other cultural, hard-to-find necessities for the local community, which looks to be burgeoning…

Baby Elephant Steps

Funny how many elephants were in the restaurant the night I dined at the six-week-old “Thai Kitchen & Sushi Bar” Galanga in Wilton Manors. You know the kind. They’re really obvious — trunks, tusks, and all — but no one seems to notice them. Either that or the pachyderms are…

Waiting for Bacchus

Sure, it’s about nine months away, set to take place on March 21-23 in 2003. But right now you can whet your appetite for Boca Bacchanal, Boca Raton Historical Society’s first annual winefest and auction to benefit children’s charities in Boca Raton. The Website — www.bocabacchanal.com — is up and…

Italian Food, Unchained

Can the owner of TGI Fridays and Krispy Kreme franchises find happiness and truly Italian cuisine in a giant shopping mall in Boca Raton? In a word, yes. Hey, I didn’t believe it either. But in the case of Pranzo, a spacious, airy space in the sprawling shopalopolis of Mizner…