Slam Dunk

Exotic Bites (1842 S. Young Cir., Hollywood, 954-921-6667) might not be as ethnically outlandish as it implies — after all, the majority of diners are now familiar with Middle Eastern delicacies such as falafel, tabbouleh, gyros, and kebabs. But the little storefront eatery, which has a couple of outside tables…

Johnny V. is in the House

You know an area is heating up when Nation’s Restaurant News highlights it. This past week, Delray Beach was pinpointed as a palate-singeing zone. Of the five restaurants mentioned in the “What’s Hot In” column, three are relatively new: Sopra, Aura, and De la Tierra at Sundy House (106 S…

Clueless on Las Olas

A clue is a terrible thing to waste. Take Indigo, the upscale pan-Asian restaurant in the charming but inept Riverside Hotel on Las Olas Boulevard. There is, in fact, the whiff of a hint of a semblance of a real clue here: that a hotel with tony pretensions on Fort…

Emperors of Ice Cream

I’ve been bothered ever since I read Al Martinez’s essay, “Confessions of an Ice Cream Fanatic,” published in the August 2000 issue of Gourmet magazine. At first, I couldn’t pinpoint the source of my distaste, but after two years of reflecting on the article’s thesis — that the “Statue of…

A Slice of Paradise

The Broadwalk Cafe (1400 N. Surf Rd., Hollywood, 954-922-0322) is true to its name, offering a broad selection of beachside fare: Greek salads to Spanish omelets to Belgian waffles to Philly cheese steaks. But its tastiest and most value-oriented item just might be its pizza. A slice of the New…

Subcontinental Seafood

They may not cure the common cold, but the new Indian menu items at Legal Sea Foods (various locations in Broward and Palm Beach counties) purportedly have “Ayurvedic” (health-promoting) properties. Calling the campaign “Spices of Life: Legal Sea Foods Exploring India’s Cuisine and Ayurvedic Influences,” Legal CEO Roger Berkowitz unveiled…

In the Swim

If there’s one thing the six-month-old Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa offers, it’s a dizzying number of choices. First, you must decide between pulling into the valet station or self-parking in the lot across the street, then taking the second-story pedestrian bridge over to the hotel. Then you have to…

Scent of a Wonton

Betrothed relatives and dear friends, please take note: I will not review the food at your weddings. Not even in jest. I will give whatever hotelier, restaurant, or caterer you hire my highest accolades. I will praise your decision to serve chicken over pork and vigorously applaud whatever version of…

Two Funerals and an Opening

And the slump is on. Two old-time eateries have fallen into the sinkhole we call our local economy: The 26-year-old Left Bank closed June 3, and the 18-year-old Burt & Jack’s served its last supper June 29. September 11, natch, is being blamed for the exits, particularly in the case…

Woe, Mexico

Mexico wants you to know: It’s not all about the Corona. At the recent Food & Wine Magazine Classic at Aspen, the country sponsored a media luncheon titled “A Sublime Feast.” The purpose was to “introduce” members of the press and restaurant industry to both the elements of Mexico’s cuisine…

Tap into This

Wine enthusiasts who can’t afford to travel to the food and wine festivals this summer can take heart. The two-week-old Florida Tap Room Restaurant & Bar (515 Seabreeze Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-779-3008) — former address of Fins Dockside — offers an expertly chosen wine list that features popular vineyards’ second…

The New-Millennium Falcon

It’s easy to get the wrong idea about the Falcon House. A drive by this four-month-old restaurant, located in a Delray Beach house built in 1925 for a wealthy attorney, offers a view of typical old South Florida restoration: muted taupe colors with a brighter turquoise trim; Spanish-tile roof; tropical…

Tea-ing Off

I always find it gratifying when a breakfast/lunch eatery attracts enough of a following to extend its hours. Such is the case with Talula’s Cafe & Tea Room (3045 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale, 954-567-0556). At least, sort of. The modest, homey café doesn’t serve supper nightly, but it is…

Top Tapas

Small-business restaurateurs, listen up: I have discovered the key to success. Forget about offering value for money or supplying a hitherto-overlooked cultural demand or even trying to please your regular customers. If you really want to make a go of your culinary foray, all you have to do is paint…

Where’s Ulrich?

People are often surprised to hear that I don’t know where every chef in the tri-county area goes when he leaves his current post. Yes, my radar is out there, and it’s always on. But I’m not psychic. Usually the reason I do know where some beloved toque has absconded…

Sustained Interest

Just what is the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), why is it hosting a Wild Alaskan Sustainable Cooking Class at the Whole Foods Market (1400 B Glades Rd., Boca Raton, 561-447-0000), and why are we so excited about this event? It’s not that we’re ignorant about guilt-free eating. The MSC is…

Good Ol’ New World

Where on earth has New World cuisine gone? A decade ago, it was the up-and-comer, the regional fusion fare set to kick Southwestern’s spicy, sassy ass. Diners could stuff themselves from Café Marquesa and Louie’s Backyard in Key West to Café Arugula and Darrel & Oliver’s Café Maxx in Pompano…

Out of Place

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from a decade on the culinary circuit, it is that restaurants named for and themed around an entirely fictitious-slash-lovable character, complete with fake bio written on the back of the menu, don’t generally offer much of value to anyone who enjoys a decent meal…

Hollywood Beginning

Are we ready for this? Sure, we’ve all gotten used to the fact that the Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa would shape up the area tourist-wise; the two years of construction and $800 million spent gave us plenty of clues, not to mention time to adjust. But Hollywood and Hallandale…

Swing into Summer

This summer, it’s all about the numbers. And no, I’m not talking about blockbuster movies along the lines of Spider-Man. Rather, I’m all for saving some bucks, Henry’s (16850 Jog Rd., Delray Beach, 561-638-1949) style. For instance, take the summer dinner special. For a prix fixe of $16.95 to $18.95,…

Safe Harbor

What’s the difference between intention and execution? At the six-month-old Harbor Grille, it’s a corkscrew. The 450-seat Harbor Grille, overlooking the water in a pleasant boating community of Dania Beach, is a remake of the former happy-hour staple and local, decades-old landmark Tugboat Annie’s. The eatery now has four bars…

Great Food, Major Attitude

Steve Martorano, it’s fair to say, is not a patient man. If you call him during the day, the chef-owner of Café Martorano in Fort Lauderdale won’t even answer the phone, since he doesn’t take reservations. If by some miracle he does pick up, he’ll probably be curt, limiting your…