There must be several hundred restaurants like La Cigale dotted around South Florida — elegant, upscale eateries that appeal to diners of a certain age and class — but few of them serve foie gras. Duck’s liver is under siege by animal rights activists at the moment (see last week’s…
I spent the day recently reading M.F.K Fisher’s 1942 book How to Cook a Wolf, a text devoted to the proposition that you can live and eat decently even under war-time rationing, without butter, sugar, or any cut of meat worth a damn. Fisher offers tips for stretching a couple…
They’re shaped like an awkward string of pale pearls. And they taste of mushrooms, a whiff of the faintest musk, a visceral, mysterious flavor like black magic — with a texture as soft as the inside of a lover’s mouth. They’re richer than butter, denser than cream, wrapped in a…
Maybe you agree with famed postmodern architect Robert Venturi that this kitschy pink wave of a building on Lauderdale Beach is “an architectural masterpiece.” Or, like owners Kathy and Andy Mitchell, you’ve got it in your head that Ireland’s Inn Beach Resort has outgrown itself and suffered millions in irreparable…
I’ve been on a mission lately to find out if waterfront restaurants are really as bad as South Florida urban mythology has it. The good news: They aren’t. I’ve finally given up trying to have anything like an edible meal at my local fish-camp-cum-sports-bar Intracoastal hangouts and ventured further afield,…
For as long as Germans were in America, they ate sausages with mustard and sauerkraut bare, off a plate. Then, about a century ago, it occurred to someone in Brooklyn to put them on a matching roll, and the hot dog was born. America is where pizza became the thin-crusted,…
I’ve never forgotten hearing a radio interview with Patrick O’Connell, chef/owner of the Inn at Little Washington, one of the world’s great restaurants. He didn’t say much about his cooking. He wanted to talk about his philosophy of service. When a customer walks into his restaurant, he said, the staff…
In Billy Wilder’s saucy comedy, The Seven Year Itch, a gray-flanneled schlub who works for a Manhattan publisher kisses his wife and kids goodbye for the summer, promising he won’t smoke or drink, and silently abjures himself to keep his trousers zipped. But back in his empty apartment, he finds…
It has been many months, if not to say years, that we have been as agreeably impressed with a restaurant as we were this week with the Capriccio. There are few restaurants in New York that might surpass it, and it is probably the finest restaurant on Long Island… A…
When male chimpanzees in Gombe National Park want sex, one surefire method of having their amorous way is to offer their intended some freshly killed monkey meat. They’re no dummies either. The female has to put out first. Mr. Romance dangles the carcass, Ms. Withholding says OK, and once the…
Edna Lewis is dead and I am in need of comfort. She spent her life cooking and eating Southern pan-fried chicken and hominy with cream, biscuits made with pork fat in the form of pure lard, deep-fried corn pone, greens dotted with chunks of ham, and whiskey cakes laced with…
It’s tough to imagine what might have convinced a handsome Parisian chef (and sailor) and his chic American wife to give up what sounds like an idyllic existence on Saint Bart in the French Caribbean — where they presumably spent their days slathering themselves with Bain de Soleil and popping…
There are some things you should know before going to Taqueria Doña Raquel (793 S. Dixie Hwy., Pompano Beach, 954-946-4490) for the first time: 1. They don’t have burritos. 2. Well, they might, but they’re not on the menu. 3. They don’t serve margaritas. But they do have beer. 4…
Let’s pull our heads out of the sand for just a minute, shall we? Let’s rip the rose-colored glasses from our mugs and contemplate — clear-eyed and sober — the vast expanse of endless blue, that parallel universe that exists right at our doorstep, home to our weird and watery…
I fell for an older man, and I fell hard. The night we met, I was in my office, chewing on the toothbitten plastic filter of a Tiparillo. Our first conversation went like this: Brrrrrring. Brrrrrring. Brrrrrring. Him: “Good evening, Ruggero’s Bistro and Martini Bar…” Me: “Yeah, hi. You open…
Trace the family tree of South Florida’s serious superchefs and you’ll find that our local restaurant scene is as incestuous as a Renaissance monarchy. And the Merrie Olde King who’s had relations with just about every member of his culinary family is a dude named Dennis Max. Maybe you’ve heard…
Names are important. Myung Ga Tofu and BBQ Restaurant (1944 Weston Rd., Weston, 954-349-7337) is a Korean restaurant but not really a Korean barbecue restaurant. There are no grills built into the tables, no ventilation hoods overhead. If the smoke won’t permeate my clothes and pores and the last bite…
We comparison shoppers know we’re in trouble when we find ourselves line-reading, in the latest issue of Consumer Reports, a story detailing the relative pros and cons of gastric bypass versus gastric banding versus liposuction. I don’t know about you, but I’m feeling a bit buxom after the holidays, and…
The folks at the table next to us are as eager to strike up a conversation as they are to inhale what’s on their “small plate.” There’s something about The Cottage (522 Lucerne Ave., Lake Worth, 561-586-0080) that’s got people talking to each other. And singing to each other. A…
If you telephone Flowers restaurant early in the morning when nobody’s there, you’ll get an answering message. “Thank you for calling Food Amongst the Flowers,” a man’s voice intones, in the precisely articulated upper-crust British accents of, say, actor James Mason. “Our hostesses are presently busy assisting other customers. We…
Ten thousand food critics can’t be wrong. Seems like everybody who’s ever written a word about cuisine in South Florida has fallen under the spell of Phyllis G’s Enigma (2717 N. Federal Hwy., Delray Beach 561-243-6377). “Culinary adventures await,” blathers the Palm Beach Post. “Amazing…” crows the Sun Sentinel. “Deserves…
If you want to get inside the head of Mike Jones, the man behind Jetsetter Lounge, you need to fire up your time machine and travel back to 1965. That was the year that 6-year-old Jones visited the New York World’s Fair. And like tens of thousands of other space-age…
